In a Taiwanese restaurant located in the Chinese community in Southern California, a recent decision to stop selling stinky tofu has sparked a heated discussion among loyal customers.
“Deep-fried stinky tofu” is a famous snack in Taiwan, loved by some for its distinct aroma while others find it unbearable. The “Golden Leaf Taiwanese Cuisine” in the city of San Gabriel has faced complaints one after another, leading to the removal of the signature dish, stinky tofu.
Owner David Liao mentioned that since the restaurant opened in 2014, stinky tofu accounted for 20% of their revenue. However, in 2017, due to complaints from nearby residents about the strong odor, the restaurant received fines from the city and was asked to install air filters or stop selling the dish. After careful consideration, he made the decision to temporarily halt sales.
“It wasn’t our immediate neighbors who complained, but residents several houses away, so I felt puzzled,” expressed Liao, “Just like noise ordinances can be measured in decibels, we just hope there could be a way to measure odors.”
Neighboring business owner Thomas Purscelley also shared his feedback, stating that they haven’t noticed any strange smells. “We are right next to the restaurant, and I even installed a fan on the roof to blow the air directly into our building. We didn’t even know he was selling this (stinky tofu) until he was fined by the city and told us.”
Due to numerous customer requests, “Golden Leaf Taiwanese Cuisine” resumed selling “deep-fried stinky tofu” in 2025, only to face complaints again and receive violation notices. According to municipal regulations, businesses are not allowed to emit air pollutants that affect public health or damage property, with offenders facing a $1,000 fine.
Liao mentioned, “We have already paid two fines. Currently, there is no regulation stating that I can’t sell it. It’s just that if I do sell it and receive a third fine, the matter will escalate to the city prosecutor.”
After ceasing the sale of stinky tofu, the restaurant received overwhelming support from many customers, with over 1,700 people signing a petition to resume sales.
Customer James said, “I love stinky tofu. Being in the US, I really miss that taste. Maybe there’s a way to solve this problem so everyone is satisfied. Yes, I really hope it can be sold again.”
Customer Jennifer added, “When I was young, my grandmother always ordered this dish. I think it’s a taste that needs to be acquired gradually, but after trying it, everyone’s perspective should change.”
Liao stated, “I think people just aren’t used to this kind of smell, right? Because many smells are unique, just like cheese. What I sell is nostalgia. They (customers) can’t pinpoint the exact taste, but they clearly know it’s their childhood memory.”