In recent years, high-end Chinese restaurants have been popping up like mushrooms from San Francisco to New York, offering exquisite menus far beyond regular Chinese takeout. As the Year of the Horse approaches, many Chinese chefs are innovating traditional New Year dishes, showcasing the culinary culture of Chinese cuisine.
According to the Associated Press, French haute cuisine or Japanese omakase by chefs have always been priced high with few questioning it. However, when Chinese food is priced a bit higher, people find it hard to accept. But more and more Chinese restaurant owners and chefs believe that the deliciousness of Chinese cuisine, the labor invested, and the culinary skills are equally worthy of a premium price.
Renowned Chinese-American chef, restaurateur, and founder of upscale Chinese restaurant “China Live” in San Francisco, George Chen, questioned why Chinese food shouldn’t be priced higher. He believes that Chinese cuisine should not be undervalued just because it is located in Chinatown or considered tasty only when cheap.
Chen immigrated from Taiwan to Los Angeles with his family in 1967. He recalls how when he was younger, eating his mom’s braised pork and pickled vegetables at school would attract odd looks from classmates, forcing him to eat discreetly. Nowadays, everyone wants to enjoy dishes like braised pork and pickled vegetables, reflecting a significant shift in people’s perceptions of Chinese cuisine.
China Live offers a variety of traditional classic Chinese dishes and delicacies such as dumplings, Peking duck, and noodles. On the second floor is the upscale private dining restaurant Eight Tables, with each dish ranging from $88 to $188. Additionally, Chen plans to open a similar upscale Chinese restaurant called Asia Live in Santa Clara.
Near China Live, there are several other well-known high-end Chinese restaurants, including Michelin-starred restaurant Mister Jiu’s founded by chef Brandon Jew and the newly opened Four Kings restaurant, all just a few steps away.
In New York, the husband-and-wife duo founded Yingtao (Cherry) restaurant, a Michelin-starred modern Chinese restaurant, aiming to create a modern, elegant Chinese dining experience. The chef’s tasting menu at the restaurant is priced at $150. They seek to break the stereotypical image of Chinese food, challenging the notion that Chinese cuisine is limited to Sichuan, Cantonese, and takeout box meals.
Emily Yuen, a Canadian-Chinese chef recently appointed as the executive chef at Yingtao, made it to the semi-finals of the Best Chef in New York State category by the James Beard Foundation last year, with a background in French cuisine. Yuen expressed her desire to rediscover herself, explore her roots, and embrace cultural heritage, inspired by the vision of the restaurant’s founder, driving her to further elevate Chinese culture and cuisine.
Chinese chefs, including George Chen, emphasize that their Chinese cuisine is authentic, utilizing traditional Chinese cooking techniques and equipment such as Chinese woks and clay pots. The woks are even imported from Hong Kong, balancing tradition with a modern touch.
The Michelin Guide for New York, which includes 300 to 400 restaurants, shows that the mention of regional Chinese dishes increased from 3% in 2006 to 7% in 2024. Luke Tsai, food editor at KQED Public Television in the San Francisco Bay Area, mentioned that even Chinatown now boasts Michelin-starred Chinese restaurants, indicating a positive shift in recognition.