In recent years, the number and frequency of alcohol consumption in France have been declining steadily. Given the French culinary tradition of pairing food with wine, many Michelin-starred restaurants have started developing their own high-end non-alcoholic gourmet drinks. In addition to specialty “wine cellars,” more and more wine producers and sommeliers are jumping into the trend of non-alcoholic beverages.
According to a report released this year by Santé publique France, in 2023, the number of alcohol drinkers in France continued to plummet, with nearly 25% of the French population stating that they do not drink alcohol.
The report shows that the percentage of weekly drinkers has dropped from 62.6% in 2000 to 39% in 2021, and the percentage of daily drinkers has plummeted from 21.5% in 2000 to 8% in 2021.
With the Dry January challenge approaching, many gourmets are subconsciously avoiding restaurants or bars to resist the temptation of alcohol.
However, a report from Le Figaro on the 29th stated that in recent years, more and more upscale restaurants and high-end bars are offering premium non-alcoholic beverage menus, providing non-drinking patrons with quality options beyond juice and soft drinks while maintaining the French tradition of food and wine pairing.
The article points out that these restaurants not only provide high-quality non-alcoholic beverages but also offer a growing number of specially crafted pairing menus for non-alcoholic drinks.
Restaurants have realized that a portion of their customers, whether during Dry January or at other times, may not necessarily want to drink, especially during weekday lunches.
Michelin-starred French chef Sébastien Sanjou told Le Figaro that he always thought wine was essential to complement a meal, but when a dining partner who didn’t want to drink alcohol felt awkward due to the lack of other options, it opened his eyes. Consequently, Sanjou decided to develop a complete non-alcoholic menu.
The pairing of non-alcoholic beverages with gourmet cuisine is not a new concept. Several French chefs and sommeliers have been focusing on this issue since the 2010s, even though it did not immediately resonate in the wine-loving country of France.
Today, many high-end restaurants are gradually introducing high-quality non-alcoholic beverages, including non-alcoholic wines, non-alcoholic beers, special teas, fermented milk like Kefir, and kombucha.
Some renowned chefs have even developed a range of high-quality and creatively crafted non-alcoholic drinks through fermentation, infusion, and soaking methods, and there have been positions like “sobrelies” who specialize in providing non-alcoholic beverage pairing recommendations.
For example, Sanjou’s Michelin-starred restaurant has introduced Copenhagen sparkling tea, Bellini peach soda, and developed various specialty cocktails using ingredients like elderflower, bergamot, ginger extract, along with their soaking processes.
Oenologist Nicolas Verstraete, found it challenging to find non-alcoholic drinks that could pair well with French cuisine, which led him to notice this trend. In 2023, he decided to venture into creating a line of high-end non-alcoholic gourmet beverages through his vineyard.
“I found that there was a real demand for it. For instance, when people ask what non-alcoholic drinks are available as an aperitif in restaurants and are only offered juice or cocktails,” explained Verstraete.
He chose to develop exquisite beverages based on premium teas, paired with fruit or plant extracts, and introduced a series of table wines that can complement meals through fermentation, infusion, and other processes. Today, his brand is a huge success with a loyal customer base, including orders from wine cellars and restaurants, with many Michelin-starred establishments among them.
France has also begun to see the emergence of specialty stores for non-alcoholic celebratory drinks, offering high-end non-alcoholic pairing beverages, a trend known as “gourmet drinks.”
Marc Volpei, the founder of a non-alcoholic beverage store in Lyon, told Franceinfo, “We’re not here to preach, our goal is to offer drinks that people love.” As the year-end approaches, the sales of this non-alcoholic “wine cellar” have increased by 20%, with a warm reception.
Customers are very satisfied with the new options. One customer told the media, “Alcohol is great, but it’s even better not to drink. We should be open to trying new things and not sticking to the old ways.” Some customers also mentioned that not drinking alcohol doesn’t hinder their enjoyment like others.
Volpei noted that France is a country of tradition where alcohol holds an important position, but there’s a trend to control and reduce the consumption of such beverages. Some customers have never drunk alcohol, while others are sober individuals; or they drink alcohol but are looking for alternatives.
In terms of taste, Volpei analyzed that alcohol has a certain texture that leaves a lingering taste on the palate, “By removing alcohol from wine, it highlights the fruit itself. We will further develop this aspect by adding grape must to achieve the same texture and lingering taste on the palate.”
Translated and Adapted from Central News Agency.