From the lowest temperature of 8°C in Los Angeles to the highest temperature of 8°C in Hamburg, a total of 12.5 hours of flight time.
Spring in Germany turned out to be colder than expected, with locals considering it good weather. While envious of distinct seasons, spending three months in the icy conditions and long nights of the North may prove challenging for those from Southern California.
The lush greenery and refreshing air of Hamburg invigorated the senses. Despite encountering flight delays and lost luggage, receiving the bags late at night around 11 pm at the accommodation made one feel fortunate. Locals mentioned that inefficiency is common among Germans, where waiting for a week is not unusual.
Taiwanese residents in Hamburg were welcoming, striving to make their new home feel like their homeland. Under their care, one might feel almost disoriented, questioning if they are truly in Germany.
The first stop included trying a German sausage near the train station, flavored with curry tomato sauce. Despite sounding like a dark dish, it was surprisingly delicious. The welcome dinner in a restaurant with over 200 years of history featured authentic shrimp soup, so flavorful that it made one’s eyebrows “freshen up.” Though seafood was not visible, it felt like savoring a bowl of sea, with a hint of coriander, delightfully matched.
A visit to Germany without tasting beer would be incomplete. Trying several non-alcoholic beers, I eventually fell in love with the rhubarb sparkling drink (Rhabarber schorle), a sour-sweet and slightly salty healthy beverage. While German cuisine may not be as renowned as Italian or French, the seafood in Hamburg was truly impressive. Although eager to sample the German pork knuckle, known for its large portion size, it is said to be best enjoyed in southern Germany, as the north is not its birthplace.
Germany’s vast expanse and interaction with Taiwanese entrepreneurs from different cities highlighted a simple impression: Frankfurt in the middle, Hamburg to the north, Munich to the south, Berlin to the east, and Cologne to the west. Encountering a rare train derailment caused chaos in German transportation, extending the drive from southern Germany to Hamburg to a grueling 9.5 hours, usually a 7-hour journey. For those unaccustomed to long drives, a solo trip might lead to questioning life choices, perhaps also explaining why Germany produces many philosophers.
Despite Germany being perceived as a rational and composed nation, their subtle sense of humor was noted. The marriage door at Hamburg City Hall displays two portraits: the male figure is the infamous Bluebeard, known for killing his wives, and the female is the fierce wife of Socrates, cautioning people to think before marriage, coinciding with the local divorce rate of 50%.
Hamburg City Hall, a costly construction surpassing the current Elbphilharmonie (costing €800 million), attempted to surpass the German Empire in its political significance through lavish spending. Hermes, the god of commerce, was originally intended to occupy the central position in the hall. However, excessive expenditures during construction, which diverted funds from the clean water facility, led to a plague outbreak, resulting in many casualties. To pacify public anger, the central display in the City Hall commemorates Hygieia, the Greek goddess of health, crushing the symbolic dragon of the plague.
Having endured two major fires, Hamburg City Hall’s gate features a phoenix, symbolizing the city’s rebirth from the ashes. The City Hall continues to function, hosting council meetings while housing the Chamber of Commerce library. Despite suffering damage during World War II bombings, meticulous restoration based on architectural plans showcases the Germans’ pride in preserving their history and heritage.
A simple yet grand monument in front of the City Hall square, Hamburger Ehrenmal, bears an inscription in German: “Forty thousand sons of Hamburg gave their lives for you.” During World War I, approximately two million soldiers from the German Empire perished, with forty thousand from Hamburg. The monument serves to commemorate brave soldiers, console grieving mothers, and remind Germans of the lessons of war.
In stark contrast to the Chinese adage “do not air dirty laundry in public,” Germans constantly remind themselves of their faults. A church in Hamburg’s prime downtown area, damaged by war and left unrepaired, serves as a reminder in its charred ruin state. While it may seem like a waste of land resources, a German explained, “If we forget, what then? Generations will quickly forget.” Germans remain resolutely steadfast in remembering their past.
A German lady who had emigrated from Taiwan to Europe for over thirty years remarked, “In Europe, Germans do not have a good reputation. Many victims or their descendants of World War II still hold disdain towards Germans. For instance, in France, when ordering food, the servers may choose to ignore them.” Such special treatment made Germans deeply reflect on their actions.
Compared to Berlin and Munich, Hamburg exudes a mild political atmosphere, yet reflections on World War II are apparent throughout the city. A chance encounter with the annual city marathon on the subway revealed locals engaging in writing support posters to lift spirits during the race, showcasing freedom and vitality, leaving a vivid impression of Hamburg.
In 2024, the 250th anniversary of the birth of German Romantic landscape painter Caspar David Friedrich was marked, with the Hamburger Kunsthalle exhibiting a masterpiece: “Wanderer above the Sea of Fog” from 1817. The iconic painting features a figure standing on a cliff gazing into the distance, expressing reverence for nature and human determination. However, some perceive it as an allegory for seeking freedom and resisting constraints imposed by the German Empire, offering food for thought.
Several Chinese restaurants in the area cater to German Taiwanese immigrants, offering rare delicacies. While a treat for those from Los Angeles, the presence of many Chinese establishments in the foreign land saves them from the agony of missing Chinese cuisine.
These observations offer a glimpse into the cultural tapestry and historical reflections in the dynamic city of Hamburg.