In California, throwing old clothes into the trash may soon become a thing of the past, as the state has passed the first clothing recycling law in the United States. Governor Newsom signed bill SB707 on September 28th, known as the Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024, which establishes a comprehensive textile recovery program expanding producer responsibility.
The law mandates clothing manufacturers and other participants in the supply chain to manage the entire lifecycle of the products and textiles they sell to consumers. This includes collecting, repairing, recycling, and reusing clothing, bags, backpacks, as well as items like towels, blankets, and pillows. Manufacturers are also required to prioritize second-hand markets and non-profit thrift stores when setting up collection points for old items.
SB707 introduces a management plan that requires clothing or textile producers to establish a Producer Responsibility Organization (PRO), modeled after similar programs in Europe, approved by the Department of Resources Recycling and Recovery.
Furthermore, the new law establishes a fund within the state treasury department, to which the PRO will contribute fees for legal enforcement and implementation by the department. The Department of Resources Recycling and Recovery will also publish a list of compliant producers on their website.
SB707 also mandates online marketplaces to provide the Department of Resources Recycling and Recovery and the PRO with information on third-party sellers who sold clothing or textiles exceeding $1 million in total value on their platforms the previous year. These platforms must also supply these sellers with relevant information regarding California law.
The goal of SB707 is to reduce the amount of clothing and textiles sent to landfills, promoting reusing and recycling. According to the California Assembly Appropriations Committee, the Department of Resources Recycling and Recovery estimates the law will cost $3.3 million annually over the next two years, increasing to $4.6 million in the following year.
Studies show that the average American discards about 82 pounds of clothing and textiles into the trash each year, with over 80% being incinerated or ending up in landfills. This leads to emissions of pollutants into the air and the release of harmful dyes and synthetic fibers into the soil and groundwater.
Democratic State Senator Josh Newman, who proposed the bill, stated that the law will help address the environmental impact of fast fashion and its disposable culture. Newman said, “The framework established by SB707 will create new opportunities for every Californian to engage in a more sustainable future. By 2030, there will be convenient drop-off points for old textiles across the state, offering everyone a free and easy way to be part of the solution.”
Non-compliant producers may face fines of up to $10,000 per day, with intentional violators subjected to fines of up to $50,000 per day. Joanne Brasch, Advocacy Director of the California Product Stewardship Council (CPSC), stated that the program will encourage manufacturers to adopt less wasteful production methods and environmentally friendly designs.
SB707 has garnered support from notable companies and organizations, including IKEA, Goodwill, Sierra Club California, Everlane, Reformation, and Boardriders. Companies like IKEA and Patagonia have already implemented recycling programs.
Circ Inc. is a fashion tech company focused on textile recycling materials innovation. Its CEO, Peter Majeranowski, noted that textile recycling rates are increasing across the United States, with the fashion industry actively embracing fibers and threads with a lesser environmental impact.
Opposition to the bill includes the American Apparel and Footwear Association and the California Chamber of Commerce.