Rhode Island boasts an array of unique and delicious foods that are sure to tantalize the taste buds. Chef T.J. Delle Donne arrived in the state 30 years ago to study culinary arts at Johnson & Wales University in Providence. During his undergraduate years, he was awarded the title of Best Young Chef in the Northeast by the prestigious Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, the world’s oldest culinary association. Today, he serves as the Vice Dean of Culinary Relations and Special Projects at the Johnson & Wales University School of Food Innovation and Technology.
“I gradually fell in love with this state and its food culture,” he said, and the reasons become evident from the list he shared.
Lobster Roll:
“I don’t want to steal Maine’s thunder… but in Rhode Island, the lobster roll is also very famous,” he said. When ordering, you might be asked, “Cold or hot?” The cold version features a mayonnaise-based salad with diced onions, celery, celery salt, and herbs, served in a buttered split-top bun; while the hot version involves heating lobster meat in butter and then stuffing it into a toasted split-top bun.
Clam Chowder:
Rhode Island’s clam chowder differs from Manhattan’s red version and New England’s thick style. It’s a rich yet clear clam broth with potatoes, onions, and chopped clams.
Fried Doughboys and Clam Cakes:
The former is a light and fluffy fried dough, sprinkled with cinnamon sugar or powdered sugar. The latter is a savory version, essentially “clam donuts,” where chopped clams are mixed into the batter, deep-fried, and served.
“You would typically order three, six, or nine clam cakes,” Donne explained, “and pair them with a cup of clam chowder. It’s a classic Rhode Island summer combo.” For a taste, head to Aunt Carrie’s or Monahan’s in Narragansett.
Baked Stuffed Clams:
Round clams, known for their larger size and meaty texture, are essential for making stuffies. The method involves steaming and chopping clam meat, mixing it with breadcrumbs, Portuguese chouriço sausage, a French mirepoix (onions, celery, carrots), lemon, and hot sauce to create a moist stuffing that is then spooned back into clam shells and baked until crispy.
Rhode Island Hot Dog:
Also known as the “New York System Wiener,” this hot dog is a blend of beef, veal, and pork stuffed into a split-top bun, topped with yellow mustard, raw onions, celery salt, and a proprietary meat sauce that Donne describes as “a bit like a spicy meat sauce.” In the Olneyville neighborhood of Providence, “people order six or seven at a time, and the servers balance them on their arms to bring them out.”
Although these hot dogs are made in Rhode Island, the alias is a marketing ploy to link them to New York’s famous Coney Island hot dogs.
Johnny Cake:
This flatbread, almost resembling a thin pancake, is made from cornmeal batter and has its roots in Native American culture. Prior to the arrival of European colonizers, the Pequot and Narragansett tribes in the region cultivated corn and used cornmeal in their cooking. Johnny cakes are ubiquitous in Rhode Island and can be made sweet or savory. “You can order a Johnny cake with butter and syrup at any diner or bakery, or have it topped with a poached egg,” suggested Jigger’s Diner in East Greenwich.
Coffee Milk:
The official state drink is a cold milk concoction sweetened with coffee syrup. Donne explained that it has its origins in the immigrant cultures of Italy and Portugal, as “a way for them to work with leftover coffee grounds.” You can find it in restaurants, roadside stands, and supermarkets. Autocrat syrup brand dominates the local market, but Dave’s Coffee in Charleston and Providence also produce and bottle their own coffee milk.
Coffee Cabinet:
As an extension of coffee milk, this beverage is more akin to a milkshake or malted drink. “Legend has it that soda fountain workers making these drinks would leave the coffee syrup in the cabinet,” Donne remarked. Ice cream is added to coffee milk, mixed together in a metal canister, and poured into a tall glass. Donne recommends Newport Creamery, which has 10 locations throughout the state.
Frozen Lemonade:
Made without a blender, the lemonade is frozen with agitation in a machine to maintain a slushy texture. It’s slightly looser in consistency compared to an Italian granita. Del’s Lemonade is a popular purveyor of this beverage, with distribution to other states, while Mr. Lemon offers a variety of flavors.
Pizza Strips:
Similar to a bakery-style focaccia bread, topped with garlic tomato sauce (usually without cheese), sliced into strips for either cold or hot consumption. Donne notes, “It’s a way to repurpose overnight or stale bread as a dish.”
These culinary delights capture the essence of Rhode Island’s vibrant food scene, reflecting its rich history and diverse influences. Whether indulging in classic clam dishes or savoring a coffee milkshake, Rhode Island offers a gastronomic experience that is both unique and memorable.