An increasing number of young people are falling into the trap of purchasing unnecessary skincare products promoted through advertisements and social media, many of which contain potent anti-aging ingredients.
A bill introduced by California legislators on February 18 aims to protect children from the potential harm of cosmetics affecting their skin. The AB728 bill proposes to prohibit the sale of anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, and skin-lightening skincare products to individuals under the age of 18. State Assemblymember Alex Lee, the sponsor of the proposal, stated that these products are designed for adults and contain potent and stimulating ingredients.
Lee emphasized in a statement, “Children do not need anti-aging products. The beauty industry knows this, and some companies have acknowledged the issue. However, their statements — lacking genuine and meaningful actions — are merely superficial efforts lacking responsible behavior.”
“It is time to take action, and my bill is a common-sense measure aimed at protecting children,” Lee introduced. Dermatologists have expressed concerns about the trend of children, primarily young girls, using anti-aging products, largely fueled by beauty programs on social media platforms.
According to market research firm Schieber Research, the skincare market for teenagers and middle school students is estimated to reach $200 billion by 2030; as of the end of 2024, approximately 2.2 billion children born between 2010 and 2024. Data from market research company NielsenIQ showed that households with teenagers and middle school students in the United States spend more on skincare products compared to the average consumer, including skincare products, toners, moisturizers, and cleansers.
The ban proposed by Lee will cover products containing vitamin A and its derivatives (including retinol); and products containing alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, ascorbic acid (i.e., vitamin C), or citric acid. A report released by the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) in January 2024 highlighted that many products with active ingredients like salicylic acid, retinol, and peptides are designed for older individuals.
Dr. Carol Cheng, a dermatologist at UCLA Health, stated in the report, “These ingredients are more suitable for adult skin, primarily targeting wrinkles or specific issues like acne.” She pointed out, “These ingredients may harm the skin, irritate the skin, and produce results opposite to what is expected.” Cheng recommended that parents inquire about the desired effects their children wish to achieve. She mentioned that products promoted on social media may not be necessary.
Pediatric dermatologist Dr. Jayden Galamgam stated in the report that retinol could cause retinoid dermatitis (a scaly rash) and make the skin more susceptible to sunburn and sun damage.
Lee highlighted that children’s skin is more delicate compared to adults: thinner epidermis, weaker skin barrier, weaker immune system, higher pH levels, and faster skin cell turnover. This makes children’s skin more susceptible to irritants, environmental factors, and allergens.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States and the European Medicines Agency (EMA) do not require testing anti-aging creams and other cosmetics on children. According to Lee’s office, only products specifically marketed for children, such as baby lotion, sunscreen, and medication, undergo age-appropriate tests.