From Brussels, the capital of Belgium in Europe, a drive south of about an hour and a half brings you to Ciney. Along the way, lush greenery fills the mountains, with scattered groups of cows grazing in the fields. Yet, what greeted me was a warm accent from Changhua, Taiwan, making me feel like I had stepped back into a rural Taiwanese village.
Having lived in Belgium for nearly fifty years, Lai Shan-lin accompanied his uncle to Belgium to work when he was young. Little did he imagine that he would end up staying for almost half a century, longer than he had lived in Taiwan. Despite being fluent in French, Lai Shan-lin still prefers conversing in Taiwanese. Meeting friends from his hometown is a rarity, and he eagerly chats away while personally cooking up delicious dishes in the kitchen – clad in a shirt, tie, and apron.
Lai Shan-lin’s uncle hails from Qingtian, Zhejiang Province, China. Following the Chinese Civil War, he retreated to Taiwan with Chiang Kai-shek’s forces, married a Taiwanese woman, and later immigrated with his family to Belgium. Lai Shan-lin recalled that in the early days, most of the Chinese in Belgium were from Qingtian. The locals described Qingtian as “nine mountains, half water, and half farmland,” a place where farming was challenging, leading many young people to seek opportunities abroad. Through familial connections and introductions, many families ventured to Europe for work, earning Qingtian the nickname “Home of Overseas Chinese.”
In 1978, Lai Shan-lin arrived in Belgium with no experience in the culinary industry and began working at his uncle’s Chinese restaurant. While toiling in the kitchen, he often wore only a small undershirt due to the heat. One day, reprimanded by his uncle for his improper attire, Lai Shan-lin silently resolved to become a boss one day, dressed in a tie and working diligently every day.
During that time, most Chinese newcomers to Belgium worked in Chinese restaurants, while many students also took up roles as servers. Even Chinese individuals with backgrounds in arts and literature eventually transitioned to running restaurants. Lai Shan-lin remarked, “At that time, there weren’t many Chinese in Europe, so there was little competition. As long as the food wasn’t too bad, business was good.”
After half a year of working at his uncle’s restaurant, Lai Shan-lin brought his wife, Xie Xiuqin, to Belgium. Together, they labored tirelessly and eventually saved enough money to invest in running the restaurant. In 1983, Lai Shan-lin took over a Chinese restaurant in Liège from his uncle’s friend. Despite thriving business, high cleaning and management costs led to lower profits than expected. After operating for a few years, he decided to break away and establish his own restaurant.
Self-deprecatingly, Lai Shan-lin quipped that perhaps “Mountain Woods should open a restaurant in the woods.” As he searched for properties, Lai Shan-lin arrived in Ciney, where the process of purchasing a house was not smooth, requiring agreement from the entire family before signing the contract.
While dining at a Western-style fast-food restaurant in Ciney, Lai Shan-lin noticed the aged owner struggling, his hands trembling as he served dishes. Discovering the owner was willing to sell, Lai Shan-lin learned that the restaurant had already been handed over to an agent. After a series of negotiations, he finally acquired the rights to operate the restaurant. With his very own “Come-Come Restaurant,” he could finally work in the kitchen wearing a tie as he had always wished.
Lai Shan-lin laughed, saying, “It wasn’t just a gamble. At that time, short-staffed, I had to also serve and greet customers in the front.” This led him to wear a tie into the kitchen to cook and then head to the front to take orders and welcome guests.
At that time, Ciney only had one Chinese restaurant, but the food was not well-received, leaving locals with a less than favorable impression of Chinese cuisine. However, Lai Shan-lin struck up conversations with the owner of a nearby café, who, after trying dishes from “Come-Come Restaurant,” praised them highly and began recommending them to others. Soon, Lai Shan-lin established his footing in the area, becoming the most popular restaurant, with dishes like fried shrimp balls, sizzling beef, and hidden menu items such as the shrimp with lobster sauce and grilled hot pot – all favorites among food connoisseurs.
Arriving in Belgium without knowing the language, Lai Shan-lin humorously referred to himself as blind, deaf, and mute. He was busy with work every day, having no time to learn the language and instead picking up French little by little in the back kitchen and from locals. Interestingly, Lai Shan-lin’s colleagues spoke Dutch and also struggled with French, leading to a mutual learning process where one dared to teach and the other was willing to learn. Though learning was slow, they gradually managed to communicate in French.
Situated in the Meuse River valley, Ciney boasts a history dating back to the Middle Ages, with its rural landscapes and ancient architecture attracting numerous sightseers. The local breweries are well-known, with the Ciney Beer Festival held every summer drawing beer enthusiasts from around the world. Therefore, apart from locals, “Come-Come Restaurant” also caters to tourists from various countries.
The most popular dish at “Come-Come Restaurant” is the sizzling plate, a culinary creation that Lai Shan-lin discovered during a visit to Taiwan. Observing the popularity of hot pot and barbecue all-you-can-eat joints in Taichung at that time, he adapted the concept, which became a hit in Belgium.
Lai Shan-lin even specially ordered ten tables with grills from Taiwan to be shipped to Belgium, allowing locals to experience a unique “Taiwanese” table culture. In the early days, obtaining ingredients for Chinese restaurants in Belgium was challenging – tofu and spring roll wrappers had to be made from scratch. As the Chinese immigrant population grew, sourcing these ingredients became easier, yet business wasn’t as lucrative as before.
Lamenting the high labor taxes imposed by the Belgian government, Lai Shan-lin acknowledged that many restaurant owners struggled under the burden. He could only rely on his family for assistance. Presently, the restaurant is gradually being taken over by his son and daughter-in-law, allowing him and his wife to slowly retire.
Lai Shan-lin believes that Ciney is a suitable place to experience Belgian rural life, where people can slow down, stroll through the countryside and forests, and savor a leisurely lifestyle. The Ciney Castle, established in the 11th century, is a notable landmark in the area and a frequented attraction for visitors.
Having left his homeland to work in Belgium, as Lai Shan-lin looks back on the path he’s taken, his heart is filled with gratitude. He said, “It’s all thanks to benevolent people helping along the way. One step at a time, things have gone smoothly.” Despite facing challenges in his entrepreneurial journey, Lai Shan-lin has no regrets. He emphasized, “There’s no room for regrets, just work hard and move forward.” This sentiment likely resonates with many first-generation overseas Chinese – striving to work hard and forge ahead.