In a significant development, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved a new sun protection ingredient called bemotrizinol (BEMT) in June this year. The first batch of sunscreens containing this ingredient has gradually been introduced to the market in the United States.
According to the FDA announcement on June 9th, BEMT has been included as an active ingredient in over-the-counter sunscreen products with a concentration limit of 6%, suitable for use by adults and children over 6 months old. This marks the first addition of a sunscreen active ingredient by the FDA in about 25 years. The initial products launched in the market include brands like Neutrogena, as reported by the Associated Press.
Dr. Jennifer Stein, a dermatologist at NYU Langone Health, mentioned to the Associated Press that BEMT has already been in use for decades in Europe and other regions.
Effective sun protection products should block two types of ultraviolet rays: UVB, the main cause of sunburn, and UVA, which is most associated with skin cancer and wrinkles. In the United States, products that can block both can be labeled as “broad spectrum,” otherwise, they must carry an FDA warning label.
Reportedly, BEMT is the first chemical sunscreen ingredient in the US that can offer this dual protection for UVA and UVB independently; previously, manufacturers had to blend multiple ingredients to achieve a similar effect.
David Andrews, Chief Scientist at the non-profit organization Environmental Working Group (EWG), who advocates for raising sunscreen product standards, mentioned that this ingredient can fill the gap in strong UVA protection.
On the other hand, mineral sunscreens primarily using zinc oxide and titanium dioxide physically block UV rays and have long been proven to protect against both UVA and UVB. However, they tend to leave white residue on the skin, causing some consumers with darker skin tones to avoid them, as well as displeasure with their texture. According to Stein, mineral sunscreens are good products, while BEMT provides an alternative for those who dislike the white residue.
Chemical sunscreen ingredients are absorbed by the skin, so their potential accumulation in the body to unsafe levels must be evaluated. Stein noted that BEMT has larger molecules, making it difficult to penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream compared to older chemical sunscreen ingredients with smaller molecules.
During safety reviews, the FDA examined research conducted by Dutch manufacturer DSM Nutritional Products on over 500 people. The study found that the amount of BEMT absorbed through the skin was nearly undetectable, with participants using it daily for up to 3 weeks without experiencing irritation or allergic reactions. Based on this, the FDA classified BEMT as “generally recognized as safe and effective,” along with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
Currently, there are over ten other ingredients in US sunscreen products, for which the FDA states more evidence is needed to support their safety and efficacy. This review is part of the comprehensive sunscreen ingredient review initiated by the FDA in 2019.
According to the Associated Press, last month the FDA revoked the approval of the older chemical ingredient oxybenzone due to its higher-than-previously-known level of skin absorption.
Experts point out that BEMT is less likely to degrade under sunlight. Another chemical ingredient, avobenzone, known for filtering UVA, has poor stability, prompting significant efforts within the industry to improve its formulation. Andrews highlighted that BEMT shows significantly higher stability.
Research indicates that some sunscreen ingredients may contribute to coral bleaching. Hawaii has banned sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate.
The US government has not classified the environmental impact of sunscreen products, and labels such as “reef-friendly” lack a unified definition. EU environmental agencies suggest that while there is limited evidence of BEMT’s environmental toxicity, further long-term studies are necessary.
Dermatologists remind that regardless of the sunscreen product used, it’s essential to reapply every few hours, especially during swimming or excessive sweating. Stein also recommends not solely relying on sunscreen lotion when outdoors; seeking shade, wearing hats, and sun-protective clothing are equally crucial, with clothing providing even better protection.