In the bustling streets of Hong Kong, whenever the elegant and familiar melody of “The Blue Danube” plays, many people instinctively turn their heads to search for the red and blue ice cream truck – Fuhao Ice Cream. This sweet scene has been deeply rooted in the hearts of Hong Kong people for half a century.
In the scorching summer days, a cup of vanilla soft-serve ice cream is not just a refreshing treat, but also a nostalgic memory for many people. In January of this year, one of the founders of Fuhao Ice Cream truck, He Jingyuan, passed away in Australia at the age of 98. The news stirred up countless childhood memories among the citizens. How did Fuhao Ice Cream truck become a unique skyline in the streets of Hong Kong?
The story begins in 1956 in the United States. At that time in Philadelphia, two brothers – William Conway and James Conway, founded the “Mister Softee” company. They pioneered the concept of selling freshly made soft-serve ice cream directly on the streets with trucks equipped with ice cream machines, sparking a soft-serve ice cream craze in Europe and America.
Thirteen years later, in far-off Hong Kong, He Jingyuan, born in 1927, was facing another turning point in his life. The eldest son, who took on the responsibility of caring for his family after the war, had worked for a milk company, the Jockey Club, and as an auxiliary police officer before entering the business world.
In 1967, at the age of 40, he traveled to the UK with Tang Xueyuan, the successor of the rice business “Juda Warehouse,” and Ted Drew, his former colleague from the milk company. An encounter with an ice cream truck surrounded by children in a park inspired them to bring the sweet street atmosphere back to Hong Kong.
After two years of preparation, they finally acquired the franchise rights for “Mister Softee” in Hong Kong in 1969, naming it “Fuhao Ice Cream.” He Jingyuan believed that many others were selling ice cream, and he wanted to elevate the quality, hence choosing the Chinese name “Fuhao.”
The birth of the Fuhao Ice Cream truck did not happen in the summer, but in the winter at the beginning of the new year. On the Lunar New Year’s Eve in 1970, the first Fuhao Ice Cream truck officially operated at the Tai Wo Hau playground in Tsuen Wan. A cup of soft-serve ice cream was priced at 5 cents, and it sold over a thousand cups on the first night. The brand rapidly expanded in the 1970s and even established a factory in Fo Tan, obtaining 16 mobile hawker licenses and becoming a unique sight on the streets of Hong Kong.
The Fuhao Ice Cream truck exudes elegance, constructed using Ford Transit trucks from the UK, with a strong British style that also reflects the colonial culture of the time. At that time, the cost of producing an ice cream truck was 200,000 Hong Kong dollars, far exceeding the selling price of residential units at 10,000 to 20,000 dollars, causing other competitors to hesitate.
In 1978, the Hong Kong government ceased issuing mobile hawker licenses, granting Fuhao Ice Cream a monopoly. Until 2010, when the US headquarters reclaimed the franchise rights, the brand was renamed “Mobile Softee,” continuing to serve the public.
As of 2023, there are only 14 licensed Fuhao Ice Cream trucks left in Hong Kong, with three stationed in tourist areas, while the rest continue to shuttle on city streets.
Whenever the familiar melody of “The Blue Danube” plays, indicating the presence of an ice cream truck nearby, many wonder why this particular song. “The Blue Danube” is a waltz music composed by Austrian composer Johann Strauss II in 1866. Legend has it that many music boxes also played this waltz music at that time, and the ice cream truck manufacturer offered a variety of music choices. He Jingyuan was particularly impressed by this song, hence deciding to use it, a tradition that has been carried on until today.
Another distinct feature is the nearly unchanged product line over the years – selling only four items: vanilla soft-serve ice cream, nutty cone, lotus cup, and tropical orange ice. This limitation is due to regulations requiring ice cream trucks to be equipped with a hand sink, a soft-serve machine, and two refrigeration devices, allowing only one flavor of soft-serve ice cream to be produced.
However, it is said that chocolate, mango, and strawberry flavors briefly appeared in the past, providing rare moments of variety and curiosity.
The motto on the Fuhao Ice Cream truck, “Freshly made for you daily,” is not just a slogan. The biggest difference between soft-serve and hard ice cream lies in its preparation – not refrigerated and freshly made, resulting in a denser and smoother texture.
In addition to using imported milk powder from the US, butter is added to enhance the texture. The surprise of getting an extra swirl of ice cream, known as “one more squeeze,” follows a standard – a cup should contain two and a half swirls, and if you happen to get “a little extra,” it’s considered lucky!
From a single trip to the sound of music on the streets, Fuhao Ice Cream truck has etched sweet memories for generations of Hong Kong people. Amidst urban changes and landscape renovations, the red and blue presence and the scent of vanilla continue to hold their ground on the streets, instantly transporting people back to carefree childhood days.
Though He Jingyuan has passed away, he left behind not only a mobile ice cream truck but also a legendary taste that transcends generations. The next time you encounter the familiar melody on the street, remember to slow down, let a cup of ice cream evoke your sweet memories.